STERLE PIERRE

Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was a renowned French jewelry designer and craftsman who was known for his elegant and innovative designs. He was born in Nice, France, and began his career as a jewelry designer in the 1930s.

Sterlé was known for his exceptional skill as a craftsman, and he worked with some of the most prestigious jewelers in Paris, including Cartier and Mauboussin. He established his own jewelry house in 1934, which became known for its distinctive and creative designs.

Sterlé's designs were characterized by their simplicity, elegance, and attention to detail. He often used precious materials, such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, in his designs, but he was also known for incorporating unusual materials, such as black onyx, coral, and turquoise.

Some of Sterlé's most famous designs include the "Zip" necklace, which he created for the Duchess of Windsor in the 1950s, and the "Ballet" necklace, which was inspired by the movements of ballet dancers. Sterlé's designs were popular with both royalty and celebrities, and he was considered one of the most influential jewelry designers of his time.

Sterlé continued to design and create jewelry until his death in 1978. His legacy lives on through his timeless and innovative designs, which continue to inspire and influence jewelry designers today.

Pierre Sterlé created many famous pieces of jewelry during his career. Some of his most notable works include:

The "Oiseau du Paradis" brooch: This bird-shaped brooch was created in the 1940s and features intricate fil d'ange gold wirework, diamonds, and sapphires.

The "Chouette" brooch: This owl-shaped brooch was made in the 1950s and features diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires set in yellow gold.

The "Feuillage" necklace: This necklace was created in the 1950s and features a delicate gold chain with diamond-set leaves and a central diamond pendant.

The "Bague Spirale" ring: This ring, created in the 1950s, features a spiral of gold wire set with diamonds.

The "Pendentif Cascade" necklace: This necklace, made in the 1960s, features a cascade of gold chains set with diamonds and hanging from a central diamond pendant.

These pieces, among many others, showcase Sterlé's innovative use of gold wirework and his ability to create jewelry that has both movement and life.

History of Pierre Sterle :

Pierre Sterlé was born in 1905 into a family of high-ranking financiers in Paris, France. When he was just 10 years old, his father was reported missing and presumed killed in the First World War. As a result, he was placed in the care of his uncle, Maynier-Pincon, who was a jeweler and became Sterlé's mentor, training him in all aspects of the jewelry trade.

At the age of 29, Sterlé opened his own workshop on rue Sainte Anne, creating jewelry for prominent Parisian houses such as Boucheron, Chaumet, and Ostertag while simultaneously developing his own style. As his reputation grew, he began to accept more individual commissions and by 1939 he was producing jewels exclusively for private clients.

In 1945, Sterlé moved to a more luxurious premises, opening an atelier on the third floor of 43, Avenue de l'Opera. He was known for his innovative jewelry designs, using the rich tones of yellow gold paired with gemstones like coral, lapis, turquoise, sapphire, and peridot. He also favored the purity of white metal and diamonds, often contrasting the lively sparkle of brilliant cut diamonds with the clean geometry of baguette cuts in the same piece.

Sterlé was renowned for his technical expertise, often treating gold like fabric, twisting, knotting, and plaiting it to create texture and movement in his jewelry. In 1957, he invented a new way of working with gold called "fil d'ange" or "angel wire," knitting it into fine ropes which he used to create fringes. These became a distinctive element of his jewelry, imbuing them with life and vitality.

Despite his success, a series of professional and personal misfortunes, including a failed attempt to diversify into perfume, saw Sterlé's fortunes fall dramatically. In 1961, he had to sell many of his designs to Chaumet as well as some to New York jeweler Montreaux. He recovered and staged a very successful display at the 1966 Paris Biennale, the first modern jeweler to be invited to do so. He then opened a shop front in 1969 on the rue Saint-Honoré, which ultimately proved unsuccessful, leading him to declare bankruptcy and liquidate his stock in 1976. Most of it was bought by Chaumet, whom Sterlé then joined as a technical consultant until his death in 1978.